Spawn Blog

Spawn "UV Open Mind "Translucent Heads are growing in popularity rapidly and we have been receiving some questions on how to achieve the best translucent effects.

Our Spawn Heads are a two part injection mold. This allows for advanced details but can come with slight imperfections. Think of these imperfections as tiny scratches that you cannot see with the naked eye but that distort clarity. The first coat of gloss that we use drastically increased the translucency, the gloss acts as a filler to these "scratches" and gives it a smooth clear finish. To take it to the next level you will need to follow these simple instructions.  

Spawn UV Open Mind Heads 

Liquid Fusion 

For a standard baitfish I like to use tie in the fibers and whip finish prior veiling the materials back! We want to have a solid foundation of material at the head of the fly that will push against the Spawn Head when it is placed on! 

You can now veil these materials back and hold into place forming a clean finish near the eye of the hook! As you see this technique will build up a head to the fly which is perfect for achieving the best results! 

Holding the fibers down put a healthy layer of Liquid Fusion around the front of the fly. This Liquid Fusion is going to act as a double agent both bonding the head to your fly as well as filling in all the mold "imperfections" that are left on the head adding translucency!

Liquid fusion on all the way around your fly!

As you can see this Spawn UV Glossed Translucent Spawn Head is now crystal clear.  The materials are snug against the head and the liquid fusion acting as the bonding agent has also filled in any remaining imperfections in the mold!

Can be done with any materials! Dubbing example below!

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Education is at the forefront of everything we do. We are constantly learning from others and teaching as many as we can. Someday we hope to have a book to share with you, but it is always important to learn from those who came first. Our very own Pete Rosenau doesn’t have tv, barely has internet, but has read every fly fishing book out there. Because of this he is one of the most knowledgeable fly fishers out there. I once witnessed him buy nearly every fly fishing book Powell’s Books Store (one of worlds largest books stores) had, over 30 books. For the next 11 days we will be highlighting Pete’s 11 Must Read Books that we have stocked our website. Whether you get these books from us, your local bookstore, fly shop or garage sale be sure you checkout the authors we highlight! All of them are amazing writers and fly fisherman that deserve our support! 

Author: John Gierach

Title: Trout Bum

When I hear “Fishing Trip”, two things automatically become part of the equation; greasy gas station burritos and a John Gierach book. Trout Bum, like any of Gierach’s amazing works, grippingly transports you to a time and place where you can hear the water and smell the camp coffee. Unpretentious with more than a hint of cynicism, John’s writing is easy to read and full of witty quips to make you chuckle out loud. Short stories on a plethora of subjects makes this a great airport/ airplane read as well.

Auth: Roderick L. Haig Brown

Title: Return to the River

Follow the journey of a salmon from fresh water to the ocean and home again in this fictional masterpiece. Haig Brown had such a unique writing style that seems to captivate and mesmerize. This story will sweep you into an underwater world full of both triumph and defeat. Anything written by Haig Brown is something to be cherished and shared. You will hold your breath more than once in this life calming novel.

 

Auth: Robert Traver

Title: Trout Magic

John D. Voelker, who wrote as Robert Traver, was in my opinion not only a fantastic story teller, but possibly the most successful trout bum who ever lived. Voelker’s words invite you into a fishing haven full of stale cigar smoke and brook trout aficionados. There is a clearly defined passion for family, faith, fishing and the outdoors that shines throughout Voelker’s stories. An era that can never be replicated is shared generously in Voelker’s works. You owe it to yourself to read one of his iconic classics.

 

Auth: Charles Jardine

Title: The Classic Guide To Fly Fishing For Trout

From beginner to advanced there is something for everyone in this Jardine classic. A very well put together guide on all things fly fishing. If you like seeing historic and transitional flies from around the globe, this book offers some unique and noteworthy patterns. There’s also advice on casting, presentation in different water situations, landing fish and anything in between. A condensed lesson in past and present methods and gear that offers a wealth of knowledge.

 

Auth: Dave Hughes

Title: Trout Flies The Tier’s Reference

Dave Hughes shares not only hundreds of great fly recipes, but also the wisdom and reasoning on when and how to best utilize each one. All the recipes are easy to follow and proven fish catchers. Dave has written many books on flies and entomology that have shaped the fly tier I am today. The techniques and patterns in this book lay out a pathway to better tying and fishing.

 

Auth: Charlie Craven

Title: Charlie’s Fly Box

Charlie Craven’s flies work. Period. To read Charlie’s reasoning and method behind a fly pattern you gain not only a greater appreciation for the flies, but also an insight into one of the greatest designing minds in the sport. No detail is left to question. Tying some patterns from this or any of his other books will make you a more precise tier with the result being cleaner flies and an increased skill set.

 

Auth: Keith Fulsher

Title: Thunder Creek Flies

The Thunder Creek Minnow is still a very commonly used pattern. Nearly 50 years of staying power speaks volumes to the design and efficacy of Fulsher’s flies. My attraction to this book is it’s constant reminder that streamers can be beautiful and minimally dressed at the same time. These patterns are fun to tie and easily adaptable to virtually any species you target.

 

Auth: Pat Dorsey

Title: Colorado Guide Flies

Great reference that covers fish foods from chironomids all the way to streamers. The applied knowledge Pat shares in this book will improve your success on the water and at the bench. The patterns in this collection will offer you confidence on water anywhere trout are found.

 

Auth: Rich Strolis

Title: Catching Shadows

An amazing collection of techniques and patterns essential to any tier looking to improve their skills and also catch more fish. Rich shares not only great information, but also great photos that easily translate to the tier. Nymphs, dries and streamers all await you in this valuable read.

 

Auth: George Daniel

Title: Strip-Set

If there happened to be a life or death situation based on catching a fish, I’d put my money on George. The rare combination of someone genuinely fishy who puts in the work to always be better. A true student of the fish and their complete environment. From casual weekender to fly fanatic there is a wealth of knowledge to be gleaned from this book.

 

Auth: Sheridan Anderson

Title: The Curtis Creek Manifesto

Imagine having to take a test in Fly Fishing 101 before purchasing a fishing license. The Manifesto would be the most absurdly to the point crash course ever to be conjured. Anderson’s wit combined with artistic skill makes learning fun in a twisted way. The book is hilarious and yet cuts to the core of everything you need to know to catch trout on a fly. Definitely a MUST HAVE in any library.

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Resident Coho Salmon in Puget Sound simply cannot resist this fly! They are a growing fast and so are their appetites. This articulated jig style fly in bight pink and purple will have fish eat and chase your fly all the way to the boat. Like all my flies, they have specific design purposes but can be successfully adapted to a wide range of colors and sizes for different target species. 

Materials List:

Hook: Ahrex SA220 Size #8

Bling Rabbit Strip Bright Purple w/ Fl. Pink 

Fishhunter Blood Quill Marabou UV Fl. Bubble Gum Pink

Hareline Slotted Tungsten Bead Fl. Pink 5.5mm

Spawn UV Simi Seal Coho Cool-Aid

Spawn 90 or 60 Degree Jig Shank 20mm

Lead Free Wire .025

Step 1: Place your Ahrex SA220 in the vise, hook point riding up.

Step 2: Take the Hareline Bling rabbit strip and puncture the hide in the center of the strip with the bling side facing down. Be sure to puncture at a point that will allow you to tie down the rabbit hide on the hook shank. I like to pierce the hide at a point where it will extend up 2/3rds the hook shank.

Step 3: Secure your bling rabbit strip, leaving about 1/3rd of the hook shank left. This is a good time to add a bit of head cement if you’d like. 

Step 4: Take your Spawn Simi Seal in Coho Cool-Aid and veil the Spawn Simi Seal to fill the space where the rabbit hide is tied in and the hook of the eye. I like to veil the Simi Seal here versus dubbing loop to ensure that the Simi seal extends back along the bling rabbit strip as far as possible. Now, whip finish and apply head cement.

Step 5: Add a 5.5mm Slotted Tungsten bead to either a Spawn 60 or 90 Degree 20mm Jig Sank. Slide the hook into the shank connection and place shank in the vise. 

Step 6: Add 6-8 wraps of lead free wire wrap .025 and slide up in the the slot of the bead securing it onto the neck of the shank.

Step 7: Begin wrapping your thread down the shank to secure the connection between the hook and the shank. Be sure to add thread wraps on, in, and behind the wire wraps to keep the wire and bead secure. Once tied down, you can add a thin layer of head cement.

Step 8: Veil or use a dubbing loop to build the body of the fly using Spawn Simi Seal Coho Cool-Aid. Leave about 4mm of space for the marabou. 

Step 9: Using a dubbing brush, brush out all the Simi Seal fibers. Remember you don’t only have to brush in one direction. Brush Up, down, and back and forth!

Step 10: Taking your Fishhunter Blood Quill Marabou in Fl. Bubble Gum Pink, reverse tie in your feather to finish the fly. This is going to add a lot of movement and attractive color to the body of your fly.  I like to get 3 or 4 wraps of the feather so that the Spawn Simi Seal body is still visible when the fly is wet. 

Step 11: Tie off the feather and whip finish. I like to and a couple  extra wraps of thread here to really secure the feather and give me room for some head cement or thin Solarez Resin. 



Done!

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As promised we will continue to increase the number of step by step patterns of flies that we use! This two hooked fly from Pete Rosenau is as mean as they get. Follow along and add this streamer to your box you will love the results guaranteed! All materials for this fly available live on our site, you can also change any of the colors to better mater the location you are fishing!

Step 3. With your thread roughly 2 hook eye lengths behind the eye dub on a decent amount of Spawn Simi Seal. We are going to dub a body back to our flash tie in and then back to our starting spot.

Step 4. Using a dubbing brush or some Velcro give your dubbed body a fairly aggressive brushing.

Step 5. After teasing out all the fibers, dip your fingertips in water and coax the body fibers back toward the hook point. This will tame the fibers for the next step while also removing any stray fibers the brush left behind.

Step 6. Prepare a mallard feather by brushing the fibers toward the base of the quill. Wetting your fingers will make this a breeze. Trim a section at the top of the feather for your tie in. Come down the quill fat enough that it won’t break when tied in.

Step 7. Wrap 3-4 turns of mallard. To get a tighter body like this example you must keep the concave surface of the quill facing the hook shank as you’re wrapping. If the feather is wrapped with the quill on it’s side the fibers will stick out significantly more. The aesthetic choice is yours. Once it’s in the water the fibers will lay down essentially the same either way.

Step 8. Remove a small clump of the olive marabou fibers keeping the tips aligned. This is a fairly sparse amount of marabou that should add some color without blocking out the mallard underneath. Your marabou fibers should reach just past the mallard fibers. After a few loose wraps to tie in the marabou, gently position the fibers to cover the top half of the hook shank. Trim the excess marabou butts and wrap down the ends.

Step 9. Repeat the same step on the bottom of the fly with the Fl. White marabou. After you’ve trimmed the butts and formed a clean thread head, whip finish twice and cover the thread wraps with Loon Hard Head or cement of your choice.

Step 10. Slip on a sz 5/32 Gritty Brass or Tungsten Bead on your Ahrex NS122 sz4 before placing it in the vise. Add 15-20 wraps of .015 weighted wire and slide into the  back of the bead ensuring the bead doesn’t move at a later time.

Step 11. After wrapping over the wire with thread, tie in a 4 inch piece of Senyo’s Standard Intruder Wire. I like to keep this on top of the hook on the near side. This allows me to still keep the returning wire on top of the hook shank.

Step 12. I’ve used 2 sz6 craft beads as another trigger at the wire connection. This is completely optional. One you’ve slipped on the beads, run the trailer wire up through the bottom of the trailer hook eye. Return the wire through both beads and back on top of the hook shank. Once you have the wire in position secure with thread wraps toward the hook eye. Roughly ¼ inch before the bead bring the wire back again toward the hook point. This ensures that no matter what bites this fly it’s not pulling out that wire! The amount of space between your rear and front hook will be determined by the wire movement. You want just enough room that the wire sticks up slightly behind the craft beads.

Step 13. Prepare your next mallard feather. The fibers should be long enough to reach halfway back on the rear feathers. I don’t want to completely obstruct the red beads, so I’ve stripped the fibers from the shank side of the feather. We’ll still be tying the feather in concave side to the hook shank.

Step 14. Take 3-4 wraps of the mallard. The junction transitions more smoothly while still allowing a glimpse of the red bead trigger.

Step 15. Again, dub a body that goes back and then forward again for two layers of dubbing. Brush out coax back the fibers. Don’t forget to moisten your fingertips.

Step 16.  For our final mallard feather we’ll be tying it in full as we did on the rear hook. You want the fibers to reach just about to where the connection mallard fibers reach.

Step 17. Take 3-4 wraps of the mallard. Tie off and trim away the excess.

Step 18. Again tie in a small clump of olive marabou on the top half of the shank. The fibers here should be long enough to reach the ends of the mallard feather you just wrapped.

Step 19. Add a small amount of white marabou to the bottom half of the shank, matching the fiber length of the olive marabou.

Step 20. On the very bottom of the fly add just a few fibers of the Fl. Bubble Gum Pink marabou. These fibers should be about 1/3 shorter than the white marabou. We’re giving the illusion of gills while also adding another visual trigger.

Step 21. Once you’ve cleaned up the tie offs, make a neat thread head, whip finish twice and cut the thread. Apply some pink marker to the thread wraps before sealing with Loon Hard Head or cement of your choice.

Complete! 

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Baitfish patterns are in every fly fisher’s saltwater box around the world. Mimicking a baitfish on the vise is simple but achieving success in the salt isn’t always as easy. This pattern gives you the extra articulated kick you need to bring the success you want into reality. Like the majority of my flies, this is a simple yet effective pattern using Spawn Products!

This style of fly can be altered and manipulated in many ways to meet your fishery’s needs, from changing the feather on the tail to the color of Simi Seal in the body! 

Materials List: 

SA220 Ahrex Size #8 

Spawn 90 Degree Jig Shank 20mm

Fishhunter Saddle Hackle Fl. Silver Dun

Spawn Simi Seal UV Chartreuse Steel

Spawn Eyes Silver Black 

Slotted Tungsten Beads 5.5mm 

Lead Free Wire Wrap .025

Step 1: Insert your SA220 Size 8 hook into the vise

Step 2: Find two thin feathers in your bag of Fishhunter Saddle Hackle Fl. Silver Dun. These will be the tail section of your fly. Tie in one on each side.

Step 3: Take another Fishhunter Saddle Hackle Fl. Silver Dun feather from the pack and reverse tie it in.

Step 4: Tie in the Spawn Simi Seal up to the eye of the hook. Then, add a Spawn 90 or 60 Degree shank with a 5.5mm Slotted Tungsten Bead.

Step 5: Using lead free wire, add 6-10 wraps depending on desired weight. Push the wire wraps  forward into the slot of the bead to secure it. Tie down the shank and add wraps of thread to secure the shank and lead free wire.

Step 6: Tie in Simi Seal either using a dubbing loop or veiling the dubbing back over itself. Adjust your tie length to create a better body taper. 

Step 7: Add your favorite Spawn 3D Eyes with an adhesive of your choice and cover with resin to add durability. 

 Below are alterations of this fly! Using different colors of Simi Seal and different sizes of Spawn 90 or 60 Degree Jig Shanks, the possibilities for this pattern are endless!

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